Friday, June 20, 2014

NOON TIDE TOLL: The blood flowing in the veins of Sri Lanka

What happens to a nation when a war that has raged on for thirty years comes to a full stop? What do people do with the sudden silence, the blank peace? What happens to a place that has been wiped out by a tsunami? What do people do with the ‘clean’ open spaces? Romesh Gunasekara takes you on a ride aboard a van across the north and south of Sri Lanka, picking up tales, dreams and heartache in the wake of events that make lives collapse.
Noon Tide Toll reads almost like a collection of short stories, strung together by the voice of Vasantha, the van-driver who carries people of all colours and shapes across the country to their respective destinations. The book is divided into two sections—North and South—and begins with ‘Full Tank’, ending with precision at ‘Running on Empty’. The chapters have curious, beckoning titles that echo in your mind as you finish one after another… ‘Deadhouse’, ‘Scrap’, ‘Roadkill’, ‘Ramparts’, ‘Turtle’, ‘Humbug’…
Every single story carries a wealth of meaning and an ocean of emotion. More appropriately, a mutli-hued universe of emotion. The characters are as varied as a Chinese delegation looking for ‘economic avenues’ and their young translator; a priest and an acolyte-who’s-really-a-reporter hunting down a war-criminal, a soldier who has killed his sweetheart’s brother in the war and his haunted by the act forever, a nightwatchman who is ‘lucky’ because he survived the tsunami…even as all twenty-two members of his family perished. You can’t really choose your favorite section from the book, because every one of them will linger on in your mind like a distant, unforgettable aroma.
However, I’ll be a bit partial and point to ‘Scrap’ as the one that astonishes the most, with descriptions that you’d scarcely ever read, much less ever see. It is the ‘scrap’ that the Chinese executives are interested in, which is really whole fields full of confiscated vehicles from the LTTE. “If architecture is said to be frozen music, then what was before us was frozen pandemonium. Cars, vans, lorries, cycles, scooters, every kind of vehicle jumbled up and abandoned in creeks and ditches”…. “It seemed as though the transport of a nation has been gathered here and turned to scrap.”
The chapter ends with a scene at the beach, at a wrecked ship captured by the Tigers earlier; but the most astonishing image is that of a pop-video being filmed in the foreground. That’s Gunasekara’s metaphor for you; the future being created on the rubble of the past. How the scrap of the past gets recycled into a shiny future.  But, and this is the little voice that runs through each of the chapters, asking the nagging question: can the past really be erased? As Vasantha asks himself, can there really be a clean slate? Can you really, like Dr Ponnampalam who returns to his country—after almost half a century—with his son Mahen, reconcile yourself and create life anew amid the ruins of the old?
These are questions that he leaves for you to answer. Neither despondent nor overly hopeful, Vasantha is a man who reflects and observes, and has a hundred questions he wants to ask…questions that Gunasekara waves as reflection points for his reader. His pen moves in simple, serene strokes. With a steady, silent rhythm like a van’s moving wheels, the story is like an actual roadtrip for you, steadily swaying from side to side as you take in what the road has to offer.
Gunasekara chooses to end with hope. Mr Van Man, bring me a dream….





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